twitter: @_metalPig | email: oi.giplatem[ta]olleh
Loose, wet and highly addictive. Surfing is a risk v's reward game that keeps me pumped and loving life. My life has circled around it since I was 12.
7 August 2019
It all starts before dawn with the clinking of the anchor winch. Then the ignition beep as first one of the diesel engines fire and then the next. We move into position, observe conditions and drop anchor. Up, eat, out and surf. Just the 4 of us. Eat, surf, eat, surf, eat surf repeat.
28 July 2019
The airport is lazy and warm. Sleepy yarning officials and passengers. The pace picks up as we flow through to baggage. Grab my boards and then out. Customs don’t want to stop me, so I exit into an arena full of asian faces holding name signs. It's a reverse zoo. Or maybe the monkey cage at the zoo? Monkeys hooting and chattering, holding name signs, pushed up against the bars in the crush. Hands sticking through asking for peanuts.